The entire country went into a frenzy this weekend as big fat snowflakes fell over Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, Tsvat, and all the mountainous areas of the country. It is the biggest snowstorm in decades, and Israel was totally unprepared. People were trapped in houses and cars as blackouts swept the cities and roads were blocked, and workers were called into emergency service over Shabbat to clear roads, rescue people, and bring heat and light back to it's citizens. The government even opened the Gaza crossing to supply the strip with gas and water pumps. It is amazing to watch this country react- mixed in with the bitterness of the storm is the resolve of workers and the kindness of strangers, and the awe and wonderment that hangs in the air. The pictures, especially of Jerusalem, rolling blankets of white, every olive tree heavy with snow, are breathtaking. A part of me wishes I could have been there this weekend to witness the streets crowded with umbrellas and snowball fights.
Hannukah was a nice break to explore and be in new places. I had a blast, staying in a different city every night and meeting new people. A few highlights: on the first night of Hannukah I went to a Thanksgivikah party in Rehovot where I ate latkes and pumpkin pie and listened to Idan Raichel and the Macy's Day parade. I shared the night with Israelis who had never celebrated Thanksgiving with Americans, as well as Americans who had never experienced Hannukah in Israel. I slept on their porch (can you believe just a week or so ago it was warm enough to sleep outside?), and woke up early to watch the sky brighten as the city slowly awoke. Another night, I lit a menorah with some friends I ran into outside a restaurant in Yafo. We drank beer, listened to the live music, and watched the candles melt, as strangers from other tables came over to appreciate the light and wish us a happy holiday. My favorite night by far though was the night I spent in Jerusalem. It was the 5th or 6th night, and as I walked through the twisting walled city, I passed religious men sitting on doorsteps playing the drums and singing songs of praise, as well as children playing games among the columns. Couples wandered the Jewish quarter hand in hand eating ice cream and drifting among the colorful shops. The whole city smelled of sweet doughnuts, and the beautiful glass and oil lamps twinkling from every doorstep brightened the damp corners of the city with a special warmth and cheer. The holiday here in the city is joyous and beautiful in a way I have never seen it anywhere else I have been. I walked back to my friend's house under strings of fairy lights, as the cool walls of the old city faded into the blooming gardens of the german colony, flowers falling from trees and landing at my feet. Jerusalem is heartbreakingly beautiful, and the more I visit the more I fall in love.
The past week has been quiet, with the sudden cold keeping everyone indoors. My days here are starting to set into a routine, and feeling less like travel and more like life. I am spending a lot of time baking bread and hiding under blankets, and looking forward to friends and family visiting in just a few weeks.
